Category Archives: Anecdotes

No boys allowed part 2

The apartment hunting process was stressful to say the least. Not only was there intense pressure to find somewhere to live, we were also completely thrown to the wolves regarding the entire endeavor. When we (I and my roommates) set out today, we had the names of a few brokers we had gotten from random people and places and only a vague idea of what we were looking for. We took the Metro to Doqqi and met up with our first broker, who marched us through the sun, us huffing and puffing behind him as he glided with disdain through the middle of the streets in the face of oncoming traffic. As soon as we walked into the building and I could see way too many wires in the ceiling, I knew there was going to be a problem. Sure enough, the apartment he showed us appeared to be oozing dust and decay. I set my hand down on the railing in the stairwell and when I picked it up it was covered in soot or something equally difficult to remove. Gross.

We left feeling defeated and option-less since all 47 CASA fellows were using the same sources to get housing. Luckily, after sitting in a neighborhood coffee shop for literally 3 hours, we got a call from another broker we had contacted. He came and met us at the coffee shop and brought us to an apartment he had found, which instantly felt a hundred times better than the previous place. I didn’t feel like coughing would bring down a ton of drywall. I felt a shower there would both be feasible and make me a cleaner person.

We all liked the apartment, but in the end, we went with a very similar place upstairs in the same building since we would be able to do a short term contract. The lady we talked to, our neighbor who is also the niece of the owner of the apartment, was very nice, spoke English well, and had two adorable boys. But she was also a very firm lady, who knew exactly what she wanted. And she did not want any men coming into our apartment. “You will not be able to bring your boyfriends here,” she said. Our romantic state with any gentlemen callers wasn’t the issue…it was the fact they were men.

Unfortunately, this is not unusual in Egypt. People are a little conservative, a little nosey. And this is annoying, but at the same time, we liked the apartment, and we were not willing to have this be a deal breaker. So, the end game is that we will be imposing on the hospitality of our guy friends (which we don’t technically have yet) in order to host any events we might have otherwise had in our apartment.

I also petted a puppy today.

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No boys allowed part 1

Guess who has one proportionally short thumb, one proportionally appropriate thumb, an apartment, a phone, and one change of clothes? I do, as well as at least one other person here in Cairo. Future friend? Possibly.

My physical state is deteriorating, having dire affects on my mood and personality. I am jet lagged and subsisted on chips and a croissant for most of today. I haven’t showered yet or changed my clothes since I’ve been here, so I’m getting that grimy backpacker look that instantly indicates to people that they shouldn’t lend me money. And I’ve become prone to long periods of silent staring interrupted by brief outbursts of maniacal laughter. Is that bad?

But on the bright side: I have an apartment! I will be living in the Doqqi neighborhood of Cairo, pronounced “Do’ii” (does that help?), and it’s very close to the campus of the American University of Cairo by metro and also very close to a Pizza Hut, where I intend to have my birthday celebration as well as insist others come for their own birthdays. It’s great for kids.

It’s a three bedroom, 2 bathroom apartment characterized by gaudy furniture, tacky art, and worn furnishings, but it’s got some real charm. I’ll be living there with 2 other girls who both graduated from university a few years ago and have since engaged in very interesting things. I look forward to leeching as much life advice as possible from them. We have a television, so bring on the Arabic news! And Arabic soap operas! And random American movies!

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The day after the day of panic

I made some new CASA friends at breakfast….ate a sandwich made with cream cheese and egg on bread with a cup of coffee. The balcony of our hotel is quite beautiful I must say. In the early morning bliss it was incredibly pleasant to be sitting in the open air looking at the tops of the trees growing along the street.

The main thing on my agenda: retrieving my passport. I tried convincing my new best friends to go to the airport with me, touting the benefits of seeing it during the day. I should have advertised the potential to practice Arabic as well, but I did not, and so I went alone. As most trips to the airport are, it was long, costly, hot, smoky, and confusing. But it was ultimately successful. I repossessed my passport and found out my baggage will be arriving tomorrow inshallah. But this is Cairo, so my suitcases could also be headed on unique journey to Addis Adaba. We shall see. In the meantime, my adventure shirt that I just recently purchased is developing some interesting wrinkles in it. I wonder if I can get it read like my palm.

Also, tonight is a little get together with other CASA fellows at a sheesha (that means hookah. Sorry mom) joint downtown, where we will all be sized up according to appearance and Arabic ability….roommates will be scouted. It could be vicious. This morning I was talking to my new friends about how much I hate Canadians so I should remember that first impressions aren’t always the last word.

Still no telephone or apartment.

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My pilot pens!

The flight from Amman to Cairo smelled like cardamom. Oh, to be back in the Middle East where every day is a feast for the nose.

Cairo: I wait at the baggage claim for my luggage. I continue waiting as everyone else leaves. I ask Mr. Man in broken Arabic if there is more luggage. There is not. I go to the claim desk and have a lovely conversation with the man there and he tells me they will bring my luggage to the airport when they find it. I’m not hopeful, but I think to myself, “I musn’t forget my passport” since I had given it to him while he was searching for the luggage.

I find the driver for CASA and there’s another student waiting with him speaking what sounds like perfect Egyptian colloquial. I, on the other hand, listen to a stream of sounds come from the driver’s mouth and realize he’s asking me where I’m staying. We finally arrive at the May Fair hotel after maneuvering through the labyrinth of concrete, neon, merchandise, construction, and people that is Cairo. I’m talking to the man at the desk in broken Moroccan/Formal/and Egyptian Arabic and he asks to see my passport since it’s required for everyone to stay at the hotel. I begin sweating…this is the closest to panic I’ve been in a while. I realize my mistake and stare off into space after fumbling blindly in my bag. He asks me where it is and I try to explain, jabbering in some dreadful mixture of “Arabic.”

“Emily?” He says. The baggage people had called the hotel. They have my passport. So far, only one out of three essential things has made it safely to my hotel in Cairo, and that is my body itself.

Also, the thing I was most worried about losing were my little spoon and my year-long supply of Pilot pens. How will I write without them? I’ll just have to go home…..

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Still at the airport

My flight to New York has been delayed 75 minutes, leaving me with a scant hour and 15 minutes to make my connection at JFK.

In the meantime, I’ve facebooked and emailed everyone I possibly could, finally resorting to opening up my nook to begin reading. It feels so productive it’s disgusting, but I also recognize that I am now superior to other airport patrons who are drooling as they read their cosmopolitans.

For dinner: an egg and cheese on croissant from Dunkin’ Donuts alongside a small coffee with milk and one splenda. Why did I ever consider getting anything else? In what world would I actually enjoy some kind of Chinese sludge or Italian cheese and crust balls instead of my sweet, faithful Dunkin Donuts. I’m sorry I ever doubted you.

I hope I get to New York. I hope I make my flight. If not, I’m staying with Rodney Roth and his mom.

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